SNAKES

Please call our regular telephone number 0208 979 1384 during office hours and speak to one of our receptionists who will help book you for the correct consultation appointment.

Please remember to inform our receptionists how many snakes you will be bringing. Each snake will need to be scheduled individually for a consultation to allow the vet time to properly examine them, and discuss their individual problems.

Please note that our staff who answer the ‘Emergency Call’ number outside of office hours are unable to book regular day time consultations.

Here is a guideline to the different types of consultations we normally provide:

• Regular Consultation: This is our standard 15 minute consultation with the vet for an animal with a new health problem, a problem that has recurred from some time ago, or an ongoing problem.
• Second Opinion Consultation:  If your snake has been to see another vet for this problem (within the last year) and you would like our opinion on the problem, then we need to read the previous medical record, blood results and x-rays etc. We can then learn what medicines have been used and what the original vet found on examination. We need to do this in order to properly understand your pets’ condition and provide you with a good second opinion. It does take time to arrange the consultation, so we recommend that it must be booked at least one day in advance. As this is a more complex and time-consuming procedure, we normally schedule for you to spend 30 minutes with the veterinarian and we charge a higher fee.
• Walk in Consultation:  If you come in without an appointment booked we will try our best to fit you in; however you may have to wait for an hour or even longer if the vets are busy. Of course if your pet’s life is in danger we will assess their condition and may admit them into the hospital while we make a vet available. The Walk in Consultation is generally scheduled for 15 minutes with the veterinarian but is charged at a higher fee than the Regular Consultation.
• We strongly advise our clients to try and make an appointment, as we wouldn’t want  your snake to become stressed if they have to wait a long time during busier periods.
• Referral Consultation: This is when another vet has asked you to come and consult with us as they feel we have more expertise with snakes or with your snake’s specific problem. In these cases the other veterinarian will directly fax us a ‘Referral Letter’ and your snakes medical records. Afterwards we will also inform your original vet of the outcome of the case. This also requires the extended 30-minute consultation.

Once you have made the appointment please make sure that you, or whoever is bringing in the pet, has all the information as follows:

1. How long your snake has been ill, and what symptoms it’s been showing.
2. What your snake is usually fed, including any snacks and supplements.
3. Any medication that may have been given to your snake (please bring in the packets or containers).
4. Where your snake is originally from (breeder, specialist shop) and what other animals it’s come into contact with.
5. What are the urine & faeces (poop) usually like and what are they presently like.
6. That the owner or a decision maker will be available on the telephone if they cannot come in.

Please note that to sign a consent form (for example for an operation or if you pet needs to be admitted into hospital) legally it must be someone over the age of 18 years old to sign.

We require payment for the services provided immediately after a consultation. If your pet does unfortunately need to be admitted to hospital or for surgery you will be required to pay a deposit. To try and make it more convenient for you we do accept payments by cash, cheque, debit and credit cards.

And don’t forget to collect your Molesey Card – our free loyalty card that rewards you with 1% back on everything you spend with us! The card is free to all Molesey clients, and we even give you 500 points (=£5) to get you started! Ask at reception the next time you visit the surgery for more details.

We recommend your bring your newly acquired snake in for a health check before you take it home and, from then on, yearly health checks.

These health checks aim to create awareness of proper feeding and home care, as well as how to diagnose and treat any existing health problems that are early in the disease process.

Our health checks include a full physical examination where your vet will examine your snake from nose to tail for outward signs of disease.

Further tests are available at additional cost, and these include:

• Faeces (Poop) examination – This examination looks for signs of parasites. If you could supply the vet with a fresh sample at the time of consultation that would be useful.
• Blood work – A blood sample to aid in determining the health status of your snake, and to identity any problems with their blood.
• Further imaging such as x-ray and ultrasound imaging.

You will be asked a series of important questions about your snake including:

• Where it originated from (breeder, pet shop, wild caught).
• It’s current housing and internal fixtures (aquarium tank, desert or tree dwelling set up etc.).
• Is it housed with other snakes? Have there been any new additions recently?
• Were any quarantine procedures set in place? (I.e. was the snake kept separate for a period, before being introduced to your other snakes).
• What bedding or substrate is used in their cage (e.g. Sand, wood chips).
• Environmental conditions including temperature gradients (high and low measurements, day and night) and lighting used (brand and spectrum provided).
• What water source has been provided (drinking and soaking).
• Diet, including content and frequency of feeding. Live prey? Frozen? Stunned?
• When did your snake last shed.

It is a good idea for you (or your representative in the consultation) to have thought about these issues and checked that you know as many details as possible before your visit.

Husbandry is essentially the ‘care’ that you provide for your snake and includes housing, bedding (substrate), hides (caves, plants etc.), heating and lighting.

With approximately 3000 species of snake recorded, each species of snake has very it’s own specific husbandry needs. If you’re thinking about keeping a snake as a pet, it is important that you know these requirements. Don’t worry, we can help!

If you’re unsure of it’s species then our trained snake specialist can help identify it during your consultation. If it is an unusual species we may have to take some photos and do some research after the consultation.

The vast majority of problems we see with pet snakes are related to problems with husbandry.

Areas you need to consider, and which can be discussed further with your vet are:

• Housing – How does you snake live in it’s natural environment? Is it tree dwelling, a desert species, ground dwelling or a water snake?
• Substrate – What bedding (or substrate) do you use? Some types do look nice, but can actually be quite irritating – or even toxic – to your snake. It may even eat the bedding which can lead to internal blockages. This is a problem we do see on a regular basis.
• Hides – Remember, most snakes do not like being out in the open or exposed. They need to be able to choose from a selection of hides in areas of appropriate temperature and humidity. If they don’t have the option to hide or rest then they can develop stress associated and reproductive diseases..
• Heating– Snakes are ectothermic; they are almost completely incapable of generating body heat. They require appropriate environmental temperatures to achieve body temperatures necessary for metabolism (movement, digestion). A range of temperatures (the preferred optimum temperature zone or POTZ) is desirable so that your snake can chose a comfortable area.  Again, understanding the species of your snake is essential in providing the right type of heat.
• Lighting – Diurnal snakes (those active during daylight) need exposure to full spectrum UV lighting (UVA = 400-315nm, UVB= 315-280nm) to support vision and crucial physiological processes such as calcium absorption. Recent studies have shown that many UV bulbs on the market do not meet the minimum requirements for UV emission. We recommend regular replacement of UV bulbs, every 6 months, as well as monitoring of UV output with a UV meter. We do have a UV meter, so if you’re unsure then bring your bulb to the consultation and we will be able to check it.
• Humidity – Is you snake from a desert or rainforest environment? Humidity requirements will vary drastically. Inappropriate levels can effect hydration, skin health and shedding.

Snake Nutrition 

Again, each species of snake has it’s own nutritional needs.

The frequency of feeding is very important as snakes are often overfed in captivity.

Younger snakes that are still growing may need feeding every 2-3 days. Small to medium adult snakes will need feeding weekly, and very large species as little as 4-5 times per year!

If you’re unsure, then ask your vet during a consultation about the frequency you should feed your snake.

Snakes in captivity often need diets supplements to provide balanced nutrition (for example, calcium and vitamin D3). This can be discussed in detail during your consultation – it is important to understand that, whilst supplementation is often necessary, it should only be carried out under veterinary guidance. This is because overdoses are possible and potentially very serious.

Again, the food items used are dependent on what species of snake you have. The items need to be of good quality and free from disease.

We usually do not recommend the feeding of live prey for many reasons. One of the main reasons is the potential for injuries to your snake caused by live prey items such as rats and mice. You also need to consider the welfare considerations for the poor prey!

The husbandry your snake receives is effected by their sex, so it’s important to knowing your snakes gender. It can also determine what certain disease processes he/she is susceptible to (for example female snakes developing follicular stasis or egg binding).

At our clinic, we can usually determine the sex of your pet snake fairly easily.

Our specially trained vets can safely, cleanly and effectively determine sex using a technique called probing. A metal probe is inserted in the vent (the hole through which poop is passed) and by doing this your vet will be able to determine whether you have a boy or a girl. This process doesn’t need to take place under anesthetics, and can be completed whilst you wait.

Should your snake be taken ill, your vet may need to hospitalise them either for a short period of a day or two whilst investigations are underway, or for longer periods whilst they are being treated.

We have a designated exotics room (our ‘hot ward’) that has been optimised for your snake’s environment, providing the conditions essential to recovery.  As with all reptiles, snakes are ectothermic, or cold- blooded, and rely entirely on the environment around them to drive their metabolism.

Providing them with the correct environment is the most influential factor in raising a healthy, happy snake.

Your snake and its environment are frequently monitored during it’s stay in our hospital. Any of it’s treatments are provided by our team of Veterinary Surgeons and Registered Veterinary Nurses.

We carry a large selection of food items. However, if your snake has a particular favourite or has a specific dietary need you may be asked to bring some food in for the duration of it’s stay.